Sikkim

 


Typical hilltop shrine in the lower Himalayas - where time stands still. 

I feel nostalgic about the 8-day 40-km backpacking trip from Yuksom (altitude 1780 m and the first capital of Sikkim) to Dzongri (altitude 4150 m) in Sikkim that I did with 4 friends back in June 1987.
  
This is one of the most popular and scenic Himalayan treks, offering breathtaking views of Mt. Kanchenjunga (8,586 m), Pandim, Kabru and other peaks of the Eastern Himalayas, as you meander through lush forests, alpine meadows, and high-altitude landscapes.

This was long before the days of GPS and navigation maps - all we had was a letter of introduction from a forest officer giving us permission to stay at the guest houses along the way at Sachen, Bakhim, Thsoka and Phedang. 

One thing not in short supply was our youthful enthusiasm seasoned with a generous sprinkling of bravado and recklessness.

It was scary too. On the last night, as we were descending down to the guesthouse we lost our way and wandered far off the beaten path. Nightfall was upon us and we sought shelter in a cave, but it wreaked of bear urine (I kid you not, it was the most acrid smell ever), so we were forced to move on till we spotted a campfire and made a beeline for it. It was a cowherd making his cuppa tea before heading home for the day. 

His herd of yak were the scariest-looking creatures but with the sweetest of temperaments. He couldn’t believe his eyes ... city slickers without a clue but allowed us to follow him back to the village. 

He moved so deftly, like a mountain goat on a causal stroll but we made sure not to lose sight of him. There are few sights more welcoming than the guest house that night.

This is my own composition. 

Watercolor painting on 9"x12" 300g 100% cotton paper


Comments

Anonymous said…
Kieren - this is wonderful. Your bravado and recklessness would have given you some rare sighting of the Himalayas that you wouldn’t find anywhere else I keep telling myself - India has got spots that are way better than the Swiss alps but they are not easily accessible. To explore such beauties, one has to be like the way you were in 1987. Your writing complete with a sketch makes it a pleasure reading. Keep going.
March 23, 2025 at 4:44 PM
Anonymous said…
I, too, have some wonderful memories from there...it was November 2009...
March 29, 2025 at 6:42 AM
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